Northern Beaches Plumbing Blog

A year or so ago, on my old blog I did a post on fire pumps, so now with the unprecedented tragedy recently in Victoria I thought it appropriate to revisit the subject, with a few new idea’s & thoughts on the matter.

First & foremost our thoughts go out to the families who have lost loved ones. No amount of property loss can compare with the magnitude of this tragedy. Many people (in fact EVERYONE) are of the same mind, when we congratulate the fire fighters, both professional & volunteer alike, for their bravery & dedication to the protection of others.

I remember the Sydney fires in 1992 - 93. My family were told to be ready to evacuate, we had already taken the kids to grandparents & had packed up photo’s & personal items in the car, the dog in the garage & we were ready to move if required. Fortunately this didn’t come to fruition, but it made me very aware.

During this time my father & brother fought another fire at their back fence at Frenchs Forest, & they nearly lost the house, again we were lucky.  

We can’t even compare this to the Victorian tragedy, but hopefully out of tragedy, will arise an awareness of preparation if we live in a fire zone.

My father swore he would never be unprepared again, he had a pool full of water with no way to utilise it & no water pressure in the garden taps. He purchased a petrol driven fire pump, & every summer it is tested & prepared for possible use.

As a plumber & resident adjacent to bush, I have been an advocate of fire pumps where the danger exists. I have installed several of these on jobs that I have done, where instead of manually putting the suction hose into the pool, we have installed rainwater tanks with a substantial amount of water reserved for fire fighting purposes. This is something that any plumber can do, its not something that is unique to my services. (Note services page) 

The pump can be permanently connected with copper pipe, for fire resistance can & even be connected to a sprinkler system spraying on the house as well as the hand held hoses, to manually fight the fire. It is of course too late  to think about it when a fire is approaching.

About 5 years ago the kids & I did a letter box drop to many of the areas around the northern beaches, Terry Hills, Lane Cove, Lindfield, Killara, Great Mackerel Beach, Mona Vale & many other suburbs. Some people I spoke to (Just a few) already had a fire pump, but  I was amazed to not have a single enquiry, over the following year or so. It seems people can’t bring themselves to part with the cash to be prepared for something thats just a  possibility.

Pumps like these would have made very little difference to these fires in Victoria, but could perhaps make the difference to preparing & wetting down areas in the path of a fire. (Imagine a sprinkler spraying on the house as you & the family leave to safety, knowing your home may have some extra protection)

Pumps are available from many other sources, hardware stores, pump specialists, plumbers suppliers & direct from myself or other plumbers, my hope is that residents near the bush consider keeping the land well cleared of debris & fuel, a fire plan in readiness for execution where everyone knows their job, & fire fighting equipment for added protection.

SOME PREPARATION NOW MAY PREVENT A TRAGEDY IN THE FUTURE.

I have sent an enquiry to a couple of the large insurance companies, to see if they would endorse a policy of a contribution, or perhaps discount on insurance premiums for differing levels of fire protection. More on that if a reply comes back.

That’s a question I’ve been asked so many times I’ve lost count.

The hot water storage tank used in most hot water systems, made by the major manufacturers is made of mild steel for strength. The tank then has a coating of vitreous enamel on the internal surface. The purpose of the vitreous enamel lining is to separate the stored hot water from the mild steel cylinder. This vitreous enamel lining protects the steel tank against corrosive action by the water.

A sacrificial anode rod is also incorporated in the tanks manufacture for extra protection. The anode will immediately start to corrode away over a period of years instead of the tank thereby extending the life of the tank using “cathodic protection”.

This is a quote from rheem’s web site about how “Cathodic protection” works.

(When two dissimilar metals are connected together and are both in contact via an electrolytic solution, a weak electric current is formed. This weak current produces a cathodic/anodic reaction between the two metals. Therefore, one metal will corrode in order to protect the second metal. The atoms of the less stable metal form a protective coating over the more stable metal.)

The original anode will only last about 5 years in a standard tank, or for about 9 – 10 years on an “OPTIMA” tank (Rheem’s deluxe model). The optima has a heavy duty anode & also has a double lining of vitreous enamel for added protection, however after this time is up & the anode has completely dissipated away, the tank then starts to corrode internally & at a greatly increased rate because the cathodic protection has gone. 

So what can we do about this?  Simple, by replacing the anode you can greatly increase the life of your tank, even if the tank is up to 6-8 years old, or 10-12 years old for the deluxe or “OPTIMA” models.  I am offering a complimentary (Obligation free) inspection of all anodes whilst on the job, if required you have the choice of replacing it or leaving it till later, or not at all. IT’S YOUR CHOICE. If you decide to replace it the costs are approx $110.00 for standard tank, or $132.00 for deluxe or Optima models (Applicable while on the job for tanks with adequate access, or P.O.A. for low ceiling heights or reduced access) For return trips at a later stage or by appointment $132.00 & $154.00 respectlively.

For more info checkout Rheem & Dux

I’ve been servicing “GEBERIT” cisterns now for the last 6 - 12 mths. I cover the CBD Sydney area, north of the harbour & the Eastern suburbs. I keep a extensive range of spare parts & its rare to have to return with parts not in stock.

These are quality products that rarely need servicing, & the majority of the work I have done over the years have been installation based & not a product fault. The most common fault being building debris inside the cistern, therefore interfering with the outlet valve, & the toilet continues to leak into the bowl.

There are several cisterns available in the range, with the most common being The UP-120 & UP-170.

The UP-120 is available as cistern only, or as an undercounter cistern & frame for wall hung W.C. suites (Very popular today). See pictures in the plumbing gallery. This cistern requires access to the internal parts either from the top or the front through an access opening behind the flush buttons. A PDF for the UP-120 can be downloaded from this link.

Wall hung toilet / Flush buttons

The UP-170 is only available as cistern only, this cistern requires access to the internal parts either from the front of the cistern through an access opening behind the flush buttons, or it can be reversed & access can be provided from behind, maybe in a wardrobe or a concealed panel behind furniture or a picture or something the like. In this situation the pnuematic flush buttons can be installed on a different wall in the bathroom or the side of a vanity cupboard. The limit is the designers imagination.

A PDF for the UP-170 can be downloaded at this link

For more information please visit Geberit.

Thought I might post an email I received recently asking for some advice. He emailed me a couple of photo’s with the email. (Read on)

“Dear Peter - Can you help or advise me what is wrong?

I am fairly handy around the house, can fix the odd electrical socket,
tune the TV but I have no idea about plumbing issues.

My toilet has been leaking for a long time, it make a little hissing
noise and leaks ever so slightly, just enough to annoy me. I have taken
some photos cause I don’t know plumbing terminology. The second photo
you can see the water leaking, I put an arrow on it for you - just in case.

Do I need some sort of rubber seal or something, do I need to get a
plumber out to fix it? I don’t want water, sewage for that matter
everywhere! Do you know any plumbing suppliers in the northern beaches?

Thanks

Gareth”

I was able to reply to him wth a bit of advice, & a name of the part to fix the problem.

Plumbing-hints-and-tips

For my first post, I thought I would give you a few hints & tips that might save time & money (TIME IS MONEY)

Before your plumber visits you… 

• Clear the cupboard out ready for the plumber. Clear every shelf in the vanity or kitchen cupboard. (The easier the access in the cupboard the quicker the job may be!)
• Be ready & available to answer any questions. (The more information you can give the plumber the quicker he may be able to work out the problem & therefore rectify the situation)
• Be aware where the sewer inspection shaft & access points are. These are where the plumber will need to access to clear a sewer blockage. (They may be hidden in the garden somewhere or under a pot plant or long grass. Finding these can take up valuable time
• LISTEN! Listen carefully, something you may hear could help with solving the problem. E.G. A leak might not be audible during the day, due to traffic noise, but can be heard in the N/East corner of the house at night.
• Have you got a sewer diagram? (Always part of a contract of sale for the property for the last 20 years. Find the diagram, the plumber may well need it in the case of a sewer blockage
• If you want to renew a part of a water or sewer or stormwater line, consider pre digging the line. Get some mates over for a digging BBQ. (Saves the cost of excavation at a plumbers rates)
• Try to consider your future plans for the property. Don’t renew a section of sewer for example if you want to put a pool there in a years time, move it in preparation for the future works. Consider the size of your hot water system if you are putting an extra bathroom in. 
• Consider whether the services are in good condition before laying a new driveway over. (Renew if necessary)