Archive for the ‘new plumbing products’ Category

Why did my hot water tank rust so quickly?

Tuesday, December 30th, 2008

That’s a question I’ve been asked so many times I’ve lost count.

The hot water storage tank used in most hot water systems, made by the major manufacturers is made of mild steel for strength. The tank then has a coating of vitreous enamel on the internal surface. The purpose of the vitreous enamel lining is to separate the stored hot water from the mild steel cylinder. This vitreous enamel lining protects the steel tank against corrosive action by the water.

A sacrificial anode rod is also incorporated in the tanks manufacture for extra protection. The anode will immediately start to corrode away over a period of years instead of the tank thereby extending the life of the tank using “cathodic protection”.

This is a quote from rheem’s web site about how “Cathodic protection” works.

(When two dissimilar metals are connected together and are both in contact via an electrolytic solution, a weak electric current is formed. This weak current produces a cathodic/anodic reaction between the two metals. Therefore, one metal will corrode in order to protect the second metal. The atoms of the less stable metal form a protective coating over the more stable metal.)

 

 

 

 

 

The original anode will only last about 5 years in a standard tank, or for about 9 – 10 years on an “OPTIMA” tank (Rheem’s deluxe model). The optima has a heavy duty anode & also has a double lining of vitreous enamel for added protection, however after this time is up & the anode has completely dissipated away, the tank then starts to corrode internally & at a greatly increased rate because the cathodic protection has gone. 

So what can we do about this?  Simple, by replacing the anode you can greatly increase the life of your tank, even if the tank is up to 6-8 years old, or 10-12 years old for the deluxe or “OPTIMA” models.  I am offering a complimentary (Obligation free) inspection of all anodes whilst on the job, if required you have the choice of replacing it or leaving it till later, or not at all. IT’S YOUR CHOICE. If you decide to replace it the costs are approx $110.00 for standard tank, or $132.00 for deluxe or Optima models (Applicable while on the job for tanks with adequate access, or P.O.A. for low ceiling heights or reduced access) For return trips at a later stage or by appointment $132.00 & $154.00 respectlively.

For more info checkout Rheem & Dux

Geberit cisterns

Thursday, November 20th, 2008

I’ve been servicing “GEBERIT” cisterns now for the last 6 - 12 mths. I cover the CBD Sydney area, north of the harbour & the Eastern suburbs. I keep a extensive range of spare parts & its rare to have to return with parts not in stock.

These are quality products that rarely need servicing, & the majority of the work I have done over the years have been installation based & not a product fault. The most common fault being building debris inside the cistern, therefore interfering with the outlet valve, & the toilet continues to leak into the bowl.

There are several cisterns available in the range, with the most common being The UP-120 & UP-170.

The UP-120 is available as cistern only, or as an undercounter cistern & frame for wall hung W.C. suites (Very popular today). See pictures in the plumbing gallery. This cistern requires access to the internal parts either from the top or the front through an access opening behind the flush buttons. A PDF for the UP-120 can be downloaded from this link.

Wall hung toilet / Flush buttons

The UP-170 is only available as cistern only, this cistern requires access to the internal parts either from the front of the cistern through an access opening behind the flush buttons, or it can be reversed & access can be provided from behind, maybe in a wardrobe or a concealed panel behind furniture or a picture or something the like. In this situation the pnuematic flush buttons can be installed on a different wall in the bathroom or the side of a vanity cupboard. The limit is the designers imagination.

A PDF for the UP-170 can be downloaded at this link

For more information please visit Geberit.

Fluidmaster inlet valve leak - Email help

Friday, November 14th, 2008

Thought I might post an email I received recently asking for some advice. He emailed me a couple of photo’s with the email. (Read on)

“Dear Peter - Can you help or advise me what is wrong?

I am fairly handy around the house, can fix the odd electrical socket,
tune the TV but I have no idea about plumbing issues.

My toilet has been leaking for a long time, it make a little hissing
noise and leaks ever so slightly, just enough to annoy me. I have taken
some photos cause I don’t know plumbing terminology. The second photo
you can see the water leaking, I put an arrow on it for you - just in case.

Do I need some sort of rubber seal or something, do I need to get a
plumber out to fix it? I don’t want water, sewage for that matter
everywhere! Do you know any plumbing suppliers in the northern beaches?

Thanks

Gareth”

I was able to reply to him wth a bit of advice, & a name of the part to fix the problem.

Reply
Yep you need a fluidmaster inlet valve. A bit tricky but can be done yourself. You change the complete valve & reconnect to water line under the cistern. Gainforts Darley Rd, Monavale (Plumbing & electrical suppliers)
The fluidmaster is the most commonly used inlet valve in Australia (possibly worldwide). They are reasonably easy to install, & only cost about $20.00. For those not keen to have a go, I can install one for as little as $70.00 so long as it fits into my schedule without making a special trip
To John
Sounds like you have a leak not on the fluidmaster itself, but on the connection from the copper pipe to the inlet of the valve. It can be very easy to cross thread the brass kinco nut screwing onto a plastic thread. If this is the case, remove the valve, clean the thread on the inlet section of the valve with a hacksaw blade or similar & reinstall avoiding the cross thread.
(HINT) When the valve is back in the cistern, before doing the back nut up tight, connect the inlet pipe & kinco nut almost tight BY HAND & if your happy its not cross threaded then tighten the backnut & the nip up the kinko nut. Sometimes its also necessary to replace the nylon olive before proceeding. 
(HOPE THIS HELPS)

Plastic water pipes

Thursday, October 30th, 2008

Recently (over the last 5 - 10 years) plastic pipes have become increasingly popular. There are some that are better quality than others. I only use one product “Rehau” & it has never let me down. Rehau is recognised by its black coating & white end grain. Its available in 4.5 metere lengths & 50 & 100 metre rolls, in 16mm, 20mm, 25mm, 32mm & larger. There are also color coded pipes for rainwater, recycled water & gas. 

A cost saver to the home owner, or the builder or landscaper can be to leave a roll of tube with them, they dig the trench & bury the pipe, complete the laqndscaping & leave the ends exposed for the plumber to make the final connections. (No need for testing because its in 1 piece rolled out!)

Rehau requires a specialised tool & fittings, but over a long run or client laid line the savings can be substantial. Always remember that either “Rehau” or all the other plastic water pipes are not U.V. stabilised & cant be left in direct sunlight.

More info  http://www.rehau.com.au