Archive for the ‘plumbing cost savings’ Category

Why did my hot water tank rust so quickly?

Tuesday, December 30th, 2008

That’s a question I’ve been asked so many times I’ve lost count.

The hot water storage tank used in most hot water systems, made by the major manufacturers is made of mild steel for strength. The tank then has a coating of vitreous enamel on the internal surface. The purpose of the vitreous enamel lining is to separate the stored hot water from the mild steel cylinder. This vitreous enamel lining protects the steel tank against corrosive action by the water.

A sacrificial anode rod is also incorporated in the tanks manufacture for extra protection. The anode will immediately start to corrode away over a period of years instead of the tank thereby extending the life of the tank using “cathodic protection”.

This is a quote from rheem’s web site about how “Cathodic protection” works.

(When two dissimilar metals are connected together and are both in contact via an electrolytic solution, a weak electric current is formed. This weak current produces a cathodic/anodic reaction between the two metals. Therefore, one metal will corrode in order to protect the second metal. The atoms of the less stable metal form a protective coating over the more stable metal.)

 

 

 

 

 

The original anode will only last about 5 years in a standard tank, or for about 9 – 10 years on an “OPTIMA” tank (Rheem’s deluxe model). The optima has a heavy duty anode & also has a double lining of vitreous enamel for added protection, however after this time is up & the anode has completely dissipated away, the tank then starts to corrode internally & at a greatly increased rate because the cathodic protection has gone. 

So what can we do about this?  Simple, by replacing the anode you can greatly increase the life of your tank, even if the tank is up to 6-8 years old, or 10-12 years old for the deluxe or “OPTIMA” models.  I am offering a complimentary (Obligation free) inspection of all anodes whilst on the job, if required you have the choice of replacing it or leaving it till later, or not at all. IT’S YOUR CHOICE. If you decide to replace it the costs are approx $110.00 for standard tank, or $132.00 for deluxe or Optima models (Applicable while on the job for tanks with adequate access, or P.O.A. for low ceiling heights or reduced access) For return trips at a later stage or by appointment $132.00 & $154.00 respectlively.

For more info checkout Rheem & Dux

Fluidmaster inlet valve leak - Email help

Friday, November 14th, 2008

Thought I might post an email I received recently asking for some advice. He emailed me a couple of photo’s with the email. (Read on)

“Dear Peter - Can you help or advise me what is wrong?

I am fairly handy around the house, can fix the odd electrical socket,
tune the TV but I have no idea about plumbing issues.

My toilet has been leaking for a long time, it make a little hissing
noise and leaks ever so slightly, just enough to annoy me. I have taken
some photos cause I don’t know plumbing terminology. The second photo
you can see the water leaking, I put an arrow on it for you - just in case.

Do I need some sort of rubber seal or something, do I need to get a
plumber out to fix it? I don’t want water, sewage for that matter
everywhere! Do you know any plumbing suppliers in the northern beaches?

Thanks

Gareth”

I was able to reply to him wth a bit of advice, & a name of the part to fix the problem.

Reply
Yep you need a fluidmaster inlet valve. A bit tricky but can be done yourself. You change the complete valve & reconnect to water line under the cistern. Gainforts Darley Rd, Monavale (Plumbing & electrical suppliers)
The fluidmaster is the most commonly used inlet valve in Australia (possibly worldwide). They are reasonably easy to install, & only cost about $20.00. For those not keen to have a go, I can install one for as little as $70.00 so long as it fits into my schedule without making a special trip
To John
Sounds like you have a leak not on the fluidmaster itself, but on the connection from the copper pipe to the inlet of the valve. It can be very easy to cross thread the brass kinco nut screwing onto a plastic thread. If this is the case, remove the valve, clean the thread on the inlet section of the valve with a hacksaw blade or similar & reinstall avoiding the cross thread.
(HINT) When the valve is back in the cistern, before doing the back nut up tight, connect the inlet pipe & kinco nut almost tight BY HAND & if your happy its not cross threaded then tighten the backnut & the nip up the kinko nut. Sometimes its also necessary to replace the nylon olive before proceeding. 
(HOPE THIS HELPS)

Plastic water pipes

Thursday, October 30th, 2008

Recently (over the last 5 - 10 years) plastic pipes have become increasingly popular. There are some that are better quality than others. I only use one product “Rehau” & it has never let me down. Rehau is recognised by its black coating & white end grain. Its available in 4.5 metere lengths & 50 & 100 metre rolls, in 16mm, 20mm, 25mm, 32mm & larger. There are also color coded pipes for rainwater, recycled water & gas. 

A cost saver to the home owner, or the builder or landscaper can be to leave a roll of tube with them, they dig the trench & bury the pipe, complete the laqndscaping & leave the ends exposed for the plumber to make the final connections. (No need for testing because its in 1 piece rolled out!)

Rehau requires a specialised tool & fittings, but over a long run or client laid line the savings can be substantial. Always remember that either “Rehau” or all the other plastic water pipes are not U.V. stabilised & cant be left in direct sunlight.

More info  http://www.rehau.com.au

Plumbing Cost Savings

Tuesday, October 28th, 2008

 

Plumbing-hints-and-tips

Plumbing-hints-and-tips

For my first post, I thought I would give you a few hints & tips that might save time & money (TIME IS MONEY)

 

Before your plumber visits you… 

  • Clear the cupboard out ready for the plumber. Clear every shelf in the vanity or kitchen cupboard. (The easier the access in the cupboard the quicker the job may be!)
  • Be ready & available to answer any questions. (The more information you can give the plumber the quicker he may be able to work out the problem & therefore rectify the situation)
  • Be aware where the sewer inspection shaft & access points are. These are where the plumber will need to access to clear a sewer blockage. (They may be hidden in the garden somewhere or under a pot plant or long grass. Finding these can take up valuable time
  • LISTEN! Listen carefully, something you may hear could help with solving the problem. E.G. A leak might not be audible during the day, due to traffic noise, but can be heard in the N/East corner of the house at night.
  • Have you got a sewer diagram? (Always part of a contract of sale for the property for the last 20 years. Find the diagram, the plumber may well need it in the case of a sewer blockage
  • If you want to renew a part of a water or sewer or stormwater line, consider pre digging the line. Get some mates over for a digging BBQ. (Saves the cost of excavation at a plumbers rates)
  • Try to consider your future plans for the property. Don’t renew a section of sewer for example if you want to put a pool there in a years time, move it in preparation for the future works. Consider the size of your hot water system if you are putting an extra bathroom in. 
  • Consider whether the services are in good condition before laying a new driveway over. (Renew if necessary)
Hope this was helpful, feel free to suggest others in the comments below